Rhubarb stars in this reinvention of a classic strawberry shortcake.
Strawberries may be the default shortcake topping, but they are not the only way to enjoy the combination of buttery biscuits, plump fruit and luscious whipped cream. Consider, for example, rhubarb.
In season at the same time as strawberries, the two are often paired to fill the bellies of pies. But rhubarb is excellent on its own, when its deep, fruity sourness can shine without any intrusions.
And, when it’s roasted until soft and piled onto shortcakes, rhubarb is just as appealing as its more iconic counterpart, albeit in a very different way.
Where strawberries are raw and juicy, the rhubarb is cooked and saucy, interesting facts. This is because when it comes to strawberries, less is more. A perfect pint requires no more embellishment than the slightest sprinkle of sugar before being plopped onto crumbly biscuits. Cooking would diminish them, so any jammy urges are better saved for lesser fruit
You could stew them on the stovetop, letting the pieces slowly collapse into compote. But roasting not only helps maintain at least a bit of their texture; it also allows the juices to caramelize and condense. You get a richer, more syrupy mixture with a pleasing, sticky texture.Rhubarb, on the other hand, needs a bit more care to become delectable. While the stalks are edible raw (though not the leaves, which are toxic), they blossom when cooked with just enough sugar to temper their tartness.
While rhubarb stalks are edible raw (though not the leaves, which are toxic), they blossom when cooked with just enough sugar to temper their tartness.
I like to add a vanilla bean to the pan while the rhubarb is roasting, but orange or lemon zest would also add a heady perfume. And using Demerara instead of white sugar adds a mineral, molasses note.
As for the shortcakes themselves, I add some oats to make them earthier and richer.
One good thing about this recipe is that you can roast the rhubarb and bake the shortcakes at the same time. You can do this hours in advance, or while your guests are nibbling hors d’oeuvres. Just make sure to let everything cool completely before assembling, otherwise the heat will melt the whipped cream into a puddle.
Of course, if you are lucky enough to have strawberries as well as rhubarb at the ready, you could serve some sugared slices alongside the shortcakes. As long as rhubarb is the star here, it will happily share the plate.
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